Proper meal etiquette is to remove shoes when entering the house and recline on pillows. Done. I was politely informed that utensils are for foreigners. This was announced apologetically as fork and knife were laid before all. Moroccans eat with their hands from a central platter. I was all for it, so our host brought out a basin and a pitcher of warm water so we could all wash our hands. Then we jettisoned the utensils and dove in. Right hands only, by the way. This was followed by a course of fresh fruit and then, of course, tea. Of many outstanding meals this might have been the best.